Raisins or not? Pudding debate splits island nation
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It is not cricket or politics that triggers the most ardent debate in Antigua and Barbuda.
It is the ingredients of a beloved national dish.
The question of whether âducanaâ â a sweet potato and coconut dumpling â should or should not contain raisins has divided local residents for decades.
The piquant pudding is one of many foods widely eaten in the Caribbean country that has its origins in Africa and has survived to this day.
And its inclusion in a national inventory of cultural heritage currently being created looks set to reignite the jocular dispute.
Antigua and Barbudaâs traditional food is just one aspect of the work under way to preserve the twin islesâ distinct features for posterity.
The inventory will also include its unique dialect, bush medicine, games, crafts, architecture and boat-building techniques.
The mammoth venture, being funded by the United Nations cultural body, Unesco, follows concerns that key elements of the countryâs cultural identity are being lost, explains project leader Dr Hazra Medica.
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âThere is no longer the traditional transmission of knowledge from older to younger people,â she tells the BBC.
âWithout that, we start to lose the sense of who we are. Outside influences can dilute indigenous culture and people fear that what is peculiarly Antiguan will be lost.â
More than two dozen specially trained data collectors have been tasked with interviewing residents from each parish, gathering stories, photos and information. The results will be meticulously entered into a publicly accessible database.
Local author Joy Lawrence needed little encouragement to take part.
The former schoolteacherâs books focus heavily on the countryâs Creole/English dialect that weaves in many African words from Antiguansâ ancestors.
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English may be the main language but patois, spoken at accelerated speed, is ubiquitous and routinely used to show kinship and camaraderie.
âWhen the British brought Africans here, they could not speak English and the British could not speak African languages. Because the Africans came from all over and spoke different languages, they could not even converse among themselves for the most part,â Ms Lawrence says.
âTo communicate, the Africans borrowed some vocabulary from the British and incorporated their own pronunciation and syntax to form a pidgin thing. Over the generations, it became perfected and developed structure and grammar.â
A couple of generations ago, Antiguan dialect was sneered at and children were commonly forbidden to speak it in school. There are still some who look down their nose at it today, Ms Lawrence scoffs.
âOur forebears worked hard to coin that language,â she asserts. âItâs our first language; how can we not preserve whatâs ours? Itâs not a written language and we spell it any old how, but it has rhythm and Iâm proud of it.â
The dialect is characterised by an âeconomy of wordsâ and sparse pronouns, she continues.
âWe donât waste time to say ânot at allâ; we just say âtarlâ. Instead of âcome hereâ, we say âcumyahâ. And we never say her or him; itâs always she or he.â
In places such as school and church, dialect is used for âemphasis, clarity and reinforcementâ. âBecause we think in it,â Ms Lawrence adds.
Disagreements over the âcorrectâ way of doing something is one reason for the decline of some cultural practices, Dr Medica believes.
Varying methods of stirring âfungeeâ, a cornmeal paste which also hails from the mother continent, and precisely what to add to it is another subject of friendly bickering.
âThereâs this idea that this is how itâs done and should always be done. Sometimes younger people are turned off by not doing it ârightâ.
âIn the workshops, we saw the âfungee warâ. Antiguans say it should have okra in it, while Barbudans add peas, which made some gasp in shock,â Dr Medica smiles.
Novella Payne â who produces a range of teas, sauces and seasonings under her âGranma Akiâ brand â learnt everything she knows from her mother and grandmother, but adds her âown twistâ to time-honoured recipes.
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âThe seasoning is what sets Antiguan food apart â garlic, onion, thyme and seasoning peppers,â she explains.
Many of Ms Payneâs creations feature local medicinal plants, long used to treat everything from coughs and fever to rashes and nausea. Soursop, lemongrass, noni and moringa regularly appear in her syrups and juices.
âOur food is delicious, nutritious and should be preserved because itâs part of our culture and heritage,â she adds.
The project recently got under way in Antiguaâs sister isle, Barbuda, where Dwight Benjamin is striving to keep the art of traditional broom-making alive.
Mr Benjamin uses palm leaves, which must be sun-dried for two days, to create the bristles before weaving them on to a stick crafted from a bay tree.
The techniques were passed on to him by his grandfather and Mr Benjamin, an accountant by profession, is one of few people still making and selling the brooms.
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He says they remain in high demand among Barbudaâs residents.
âI may be biased, but I find them more effective than store-bought brooms â you feel the difference when you use them. They cover more ground too,â he says.
âItâs not widely practised anymore, but itâs something we should cherish and document. Iâm hoping my son will pick it up.â
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For Dr Medica, the project has deeper significance still.
âWhen we talk about culture in Caribbean islands, we tend to forget the engagement with our colonial past and the impact of that. Weâre told that our history began when Africans were brought here, projecting this notion that we came as empty vessels with no memory,â she says.
âThe great thing about this work is the huge evidence of African cultural retention. As a people we can claim, âThis is us.â
âIn dialect, when someone treats you unfairly, we say âme smaddy [somebody] tooâ,â she adds. âAnd thatâs what this whole project is; itâs a claim to personhood.â